Squiggle Sox–free pattern

Squiggle Sox–free pattern

Yay, a free sock pattern!  However, there are some caveats:

1)I’ve only ever knit *2 pairs* of socks in my entire life.  This is one of those pairs.  Therefore, I know next to nothing about sock construction and pattern writing.  But I tried.  The text that follows is the result of my effort.

2)Bearing that in mind, while I’m fairly confident that the construction is up to par (it is, after all, based on Silver’s Sock Class), the pattern may be written in a way that’s unusual.  Please don’t hesitate to correct/guide me on this one.  I need the practice and welcome advice.

3)The pattern is written for a (women’s) size 6-7 foot, because that’s what I have.  I put ideas about increasing the diameter at the end, but they’re just that:  ideas.  I repeat:  I’m no expert!

So with that said…

Squiggle Sox by KateOhKatie

Materials:
2 50-g balls of Wildfoote sock yarn, or similar fingering-weight yarn.
1 set of 4 US #2 DPNs, or size needed to obtain gauge.
cable needle (if needed)
tapestry needle for weaving in ends

Gauge:  8 1/2 stitches/inch in stockinette.

Directions:
CO 56 stitches, divide as follows:  16 on Needle #1, 24 on Needle #2, 16 on Needle #3.

Rnds 1-8:  (k2, p2) around.

Rnds 9-14:  Needle #1:  k16. Needle #2:  p1, k4, p1, k12, p1, k4, p1.  Needle #3: k16.

Rnd 15:  Needle #1:  k16.  Needle #2:  p1, C4F, p1, k12, p1, C4F, p1.  Needle #3:  k16.

Rnds 16-21:  same as Rnds 9-14.

Rnd 22:  Needle #1:  k16.  Needle #2:  p1, C4B, p1, k12, p1, C4B, p1.  Needle #3:  k16.

Repeat rounds 9-22 4 more times, or until leg of sock measures approx. 8 1/2″ in length.  Then, repeat Rnds. 9-15 one more time.

Combine stitches on Needle #1 and Needle #3 (32 st total).

Work heel flap on these 32 stitches to 2″.  Turn heel.

Pick up and k 16 stitches on each side of heel flap.

Work gusset decreases while maintaining cable pattern on top of foot, decreasing every other round until 56 stitches total remain.

Continuing to maintain cable pattern, work even until foot measures 7″ in length (or length needed).  If altering length of foot, try to end foot on a cable round.

Begin foot decreases as follows:  Needle #1:  k to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.  Needle #2:  k1, ssk, k to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.  Needle #3:  k1, ssk, k remaining stitches.  Alternate decrease rounds with an even round.

After 4 decrease rounds (8 rounds total–4 decrease rounds + 4 even rounds), STOP decreasing on Needle #2, while continuing decreases as usual on Needles #1 and #3.  Needle #2 should have 16 stitches at this point.

Once Needles #1 and #3 have been decreased to 8 stitches each, resume decreases on Needle #2 as before.  Work until Needles #1 and #3 have 6 stitches each, and Needle #2 has 12 stitches.  Kitchener toe closed, and you’re done!

I only hope I didn’t mess this up too badly….

One final note:  I’m aware that I have rather narrow feet, and I like snug socks.  However if this is not the case for you, you should be able to CO more stitches originally, positioning them to occupy the stockinette panel at the front of leg/top of foot.  This should keep the cables well-situated on wider feet.  I haven’t tried this, though, so if you do I’d love to hear how it works!

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